The man Ben Pollinger succeeded as executive chef at Oceana in October, Cornelius Gallagher, was one of the citys top toques, and much of the kitchen left with him. Finally, though, Pollinger has settled in and after much tweaking of the original, finally introduced his own menu (which weve filed into our flourishing playground of a database). Says the chef: Oceanas menu reflects my vision for what I wanted to do here: a kind of global seafood, with a simultaneous awareness of classic American cooking.
Theres one thing you wont find on the menu, though, and thats because the restaurants only serving it until it runs out, which will probably be tonight: rare-as-plutonium wild Columbia River sturgeon. Pollinger pan roasts the fish, and serves it with braised Yukon gold potatoes, baby vegetables, and a saffron jus reminiscent of the cooking he did under Floyd Cardoz at Tabla. I think Im the only guy in New York who has it right now, the chef tells us. Its very simple. I basically cook it like a steak.