Peacock Alley, Soon to Become a Lounge, Serving New Small Plates

The smoked salmon with citrus emulsion.Photo courtesy Peacock Alley

The lounge-ification of New York continues apace. At the Waldorf-Astorias Peacock Alley, long a citadel of haute cuisine, the lounge will literally swallow up the dining room at the end of the month, and an already-expanded small-plates menu will take the place of the traditional dining and la carte service. We can have bolder flavors, John Doherty, the hotels executive chef, tells us, because youre eating less. Allow us to elaborate: In one new dish, chef Cedric Tovar is smoking salmon (in another, sturgeon) with cedar chips and serving them with braised endive and a bright citrus emulsion; in one holdover, hes serving jumbo Maya shrimp cocktail with spicy horseradish, tomato marmalade, and tomato sorbet. The new menu will be 90 percent seafood, Tovar says: People love the way I work with fish.