Dueling Views on Morandi; Varietal Taken to Task

Morandi gets absolutely slaughtered by Steve Cuozzo. Keith McNally has hardly received a bad review yet. [NYP]

Meanwhile, Moira Hodgson loves the place: Youll want to taste everything on this menu. She seems to have liked all of it, with the possible exception of an overpriced veal chop. Did these two even go to the same restaurant? [NYO]

Bruni one-stars Varietal, calling the food creative but uneven and lambasting avant-garde dessert chef Jordan Kahn, who has enjoyed a lot of critical love. The desserts dont so much eschew convention as pummel and shatter it literally, and often pointlessly. [NYT]

Deep in Sunset Park, Meehan finds Pacificana, a new Cantonese palace with great dim sum, the best congee hes ever had, and one great entre after another. Its extremely rare that a major Chinese restaurant in the outer boroughs earns a write-up in the Times (the last was Spicy & Tasty), but this one sounds like it deserves it. [NYT]

Ryan Sutton weighs in first on Eds Lobster Bar, continuing his practice of dropping into places before theyre open two weeks. This time, he liked what he tasted. [Bloomberg]

Paul Adams offers Kefi appreciation but stops short of total approval. Several main courses were dry or plain, suggesting that chef Michael Psilakis may be more concerned with opening Anthos or that the no-reservations policy needs to be rethought. [NYS]

Robert Sietsema reviews Kiosco Piaxtla, a Mexican caf in Williamsburg which, he tells us, serves pale chicken and bony goat, but which makes a mean mole. [VV]

A double review of 15 East, the sushi sequel to Tocqueville, and Sumile Sushi: Randall Lane isnt crazy about either of them, saying that the first has great sushi but is overpriced and otherwise disappointing, and outright panning Sumile Sushi as boring. Strangely, he doesnt like Josh DeChelliss cooked dishes, either. [TONY]