The tools are here to stay: Even Jean-Georges Vongerichten has begun using a CVap oven, a favorite of MG types for its total moisture control. But, with all due respect to pastry rock stars Mason and Kahn, a lot is riding on how Liebrandt does. Extravagances like Kahn’s “Meditation in Purple” and the miso-butterscotch pork belly Mason has concocted in his test kitchen seem less insane than they might because they’re small-plate desserts. wd-50’s Wylie Dufresne has built a restaurant around molecular gastronomy, but he’s the only one. If Liebrandt can do it as well (and under the harsh glare of the media spotlight, sorry!), MG might have a chance after all. If he winds up with another Gilt, we might be looking at a thousand-year-era of steaks and salmon.