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The Latest Haute Heritage Meat: Chicken

We don't know if we want to fight him or eat him.Photo courtesy Heritage Foods USA

Heritage Foods USA recently announced the arrival of a chicken so pure and primitive, so unspoiled by modern industrial breeding, that it has “even retained [its] fighting look” from its days as a battling Javanese bird. The price of the Indian Game Chicken is fierce, too: $68 for two three-and-a-half pounders. Apparently, the first batch of birds sold out in two days, and the company reports that some of the city’s top chefs have come calling, including those from the Batali group, the Craft restaurants, and the Cleaver Catering Company.

They’ll have to wait, though: The chickens take twenty weeks rather than five to grow enough to slaughter, and that means three good months before the current crop comes to market weight. Once it does, however, bet on these mean little guys giving the heritage porks of the world a run for their money. Meanwhile, Marni Hurwitz, owner of tiny Cloonshee Farms, perhaps the area’s most prized chicken source, is supposedly retiring and closing up shop. (We haven’t confirmed this, but the Park Slope Co-op members are already mourning the loss on Chowhound.) And so continues the circle of culinary life.

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