Steve Cuozzo takes Kobe Club and Quality Meats to task in todays Post, complaining that they should serve more 28-day dry-aged Prime steaks, the gold standard. Theres a reason those restaurants steaks arent stellar, but their grade and how long theyve been aged has nothing to do with it.
A mediocre piece of beef is mediocre even with aging, and prime steaks are so designated by the USDA after a mere visual inspection. Back when Peter Luger was making its reputation, each cut was carefully inspected and brought back from the market. The big steakhouses that are so popular today more or less buy beef by the truckload and hope for the best. You might luck into a great steak anywhere on any given night we recently did, at Nick and Stefs at Madison Square Garden; it was a rib eye but its akin to finding true love in New York City. And just as it is with romantic interests, you have to put aside age and other peoples labels. Theres a steak out there waiting for you, but you wont necessarily find it in the most obvious places.