At Silent H, the restaurant he’s opening in his Williamsburg neighborhood on February 17, Nguyen has whittled his menu down to a focused selection of tapas (braised pork spareribs with cabbage and radicchio, lemongrass shrimp cakes), a couple salads, and a half-dozen entrées, like the classic Vietnamese crêpe, broken rice with grilled pork chops, and vegan-friendly fried rice. There will be an assortment of bánh mì at lunch (including the kielbasa-stuffed “Greenpoint”), Vietnamese coffee and exotic fruit shakes, and eventually, lord of liquor licenses willing, beer and wine. And how did Nguyen come by Silent H, a name as distinctive as Oznot’s Dish, the last restaurant to occupy that northside location? “There’s a silent H in so many Vietnamese words, including my name.” — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
Silent H, 79 Berry St., at N. 9th St., Williamsburg, Brooklyn; 718-218-7063. Opens February 17.