Lagman awaits you at Taam-Tov. No, seriously — it’s getting cold.Photo: Everett Bogue
Last week we lamented the freakishly warm weather’s impact on the availability (and desirability) of cassoulet. Now that New York has finally hit a cold pocket, we’re taking the opportunity to recommend three soups that are the culinary equivalent of kicking back by a roaring fire.
Lagman Soup, Taam-Tov
This obscure diamond-district eatery is one of our favorites, but you can find this soup at any number of Bukharan and Uzbek places around the city. Lagman is a potent mix of beef broth, cilantro, homemade noodles, coarse-cut vegetables, and soft stew meat.
Phô, Nha Trang Centre
To describe it simply as a noodle soup is akin to describing Jessica Biel as an actress. The noodles are completely beside the point: It is the endless parade of fillings that make it so irresistible. From organ meats to economy cuts of beef, you never know what you’ll find, but you’ll savor every surprise. Seldom have tendons been so appealing.
Chicken soup, Tarallucci e Vino
The Underground Gourmet called this delicate dish the Best Chicken Soup of 2006, and it’s still delicious in 2007. Sayeth R&R;: “[O]ne spoonful of the heady hen broth mingled with the remarkably thin and delicious scrippelle [crêpes] is all it takes to lift your spirits.”