“It’s a lot of fun, because it allows you to not worry about the intellectual side of the cooking,” he told us. “This isn’t even about technique so much. If I were doing a lamb shank at Dona, it would have to be perfectly tied, and we’d have to sear it down, and the vegetables would have to be prepared 100 percent perfectly. Here, the vegetables are coarse-chopped, the lamb isn’t tied; we just put it all in a pot, just like my mother did.”
Will Psilakis be sorry to return to precision and technique when he opens the high-minded Anthos, which aims to put haute-Greek cuisine on par with the best French and Italian, in the fall? “It’s an extension of the same thing,” he says. “I like the food that makes you think about its inspiration, where it came from. Kefi and Anthos are just two different parts of the same thing.” Psilakis and company, of course, just hope both parts are profitable — and have ironclad leases.
Earlier: Dona Closing Saturday