the other critics

More Reasons for Ramsay to Worry; Could Use Some ‘Time Out’ Love

Frank Bruni wants to dislike Mai House but just can’t quite bring himself to do it. [NYT]

Meehan has no reason to like Pardo’s … so he doesn’t. [NYT]

Paul Adams tepid on Gordon Ramsay, citing his “great competence and little sparkle.” [NYS]

Alan Richman awards Ramsay one big “ouch”; he’s reminded of “the French-international cuisine that British chefs turn out whenever they ply their trade aboard cruise ships.” [Bloomberg]

Klee Brasserie apparently finds its way into Randall Lane’s heart, though thoughts like “it’s a bit of a mishmash, but a good mishmash” don’t fully convey the apparent chemistry they share. What with all the positive mini-reviews of Café Pierre, Guadalupe, and Benjamin Steak House, it’s a veritable lovefest over at Time Out. [TONY]

Brooklyn spot NoNO Kitchen charms Andrea Thompson, who rather drily observes that it’s “quite good, if not exactly phenomenal.” [NYer]

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