Why the Roast Pork Italian historically plays Oates to the cheesesteak’s Hall is one of the great mysteries of the sandwich world and something the UG — considered by those who know him to be a deep thinker on such weighty matters — is at a loss to explain.
In any case, much to Ms. UG’s delight, now there is a Roast Pork Italian alternative within lumbering distance of UG headquarters, at the chic Soho wine bar Centovini. Although chef Patti Jackson calls it a porchetta sandwich, rest assured that it is a Roast Pork Italian by any other name. “I’m from northeastern Pennsylvania,” says Jackson, “and this is something I remember from carnivals, church fairs, or whatever when I was a kid.”
Lest any Philly-sandwich screwballs get the wrong idea, note that this is an interpretive $16 deluxe model equal to its suave surroundings and served on focaccia. And unlike Tony Luke’s version, the broccoli rabe isn’t cooked down to a mushy paste and that ethereal house-made focaccia might be the next best thing to an Amoroso roll. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
Available at lunch and weekend brunch only; Centovini, 25 W. Houston St., nr. Greene St.; 212-219-2133.