in the magazine

Increase Your Virility, Foodie Cred

No, human skulls are not served.Photo: Daniel Maurer

In this week's magazine, Rob and Robin sing the praises of cod milt, also known as shirako, also known as kiku, also known as — okay, no getting around it — cod sperm. If this gets your mouth watering, you might also be interested to know that Kenka, home to the most coveted 8 p.m. tables among Japanese hipsters, lists bull's penis on its manga-inspired specials menu (turkey testicles are sometimes also available). We've never seen grilled chicken ovaries (or "balls on a string" as Japanese children call the skewered treats) at American yakitori vendors, but let's hope that changes now that izakayas (and cod sperm) are having their moment. — Daniel Maurer

Shirako Season [NYM]

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