the underground gourmet

Sandwich of the Week: Egg's Amazing Breakfast Treat

A little bit of Col. Newsom in each one.Photo: Rob Patronite

While the humble egg — gently poached at low temperatures and served in creative ways once reserved for hunks of meat or fish — is having its moment on dinner menus across the city, so too is the even humbler egg sandwich. Witness City Bakery's new fried-egg-bacon-and- Cato-Corner-cheese brunch biscuit, the "Egg on a Roll" on Prune's just-debuted lunch menu, and Starbucks's McDonald's-inspired line of breakfast sandwiches available throughout the day.

The greatest endorsement for the anytime appeal of the egg sandwich, however, was revealed earlier this year with the publication of our esteemed colleague Gael Greene's Insatiable: Tales From a Life of Delicious Excess. In that cheek-blushing tome, as everyone knows by now, Greene revealed that, after a brief romantic interlude with Elvis Presley in his hotel room, the pre-bloat King asked the pre-floppy-hatted Critic for one last favor: "Would you mind calling room service and ordering me a fried-egg sandwich?" he bleated.

Nothing against room-service egg sandwiches, but the next time Greene is in the market for a first-rate post-coital snack, she should repair immediately to Egg, the Williamsburg breakfast nook that operates mornings only out of the garagelike premises of Sparky's hot-dog emporium, and place an off-the-menu order for a ham-and-egg biscuit with cheese. No run-of-the-mill McMuffin, it comes on a homemade buttermilk biscuit; it's stuffed with the fluffiest scrambled eggs imaginable, shards of succulent Col. Bill Newsom's Kentucky ham, and melted Grafton Cheddar.

It's undoubtedly the best thing you can eat for breakfast, worthy of Sandwich of the Week honors and also any larger-than-life rock star, no matter how discriminating his palate.

Egg, 135 N. 5th St., nr. Bedford St., Williamsburg, Brooklyn; 718-302-5151. Open seven days a week, until noon.

— Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

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