This was the very message of regret conveyed by Gray's Papaya to the world, apologizing in advance for the dollar-a-dog barrier. (When this will happen, no man can say. The stoic, fast-moving drones at the Village Gray's merely shrugged when asked.) It occurs to us that there's an elegant symmetry in the two restaurants' raising their prices. Both are beloved by their customers, and both occupy special places at the top and bottom of the food chain. And neither price increase will affect their business one bit. High-stepping swells who will stop at nothing to experience the ultimate in sushi will pay $400 without a thought; as J.P. Morgan once said of yachts, if you have to ask the price … As for Gray's, even the brokest college student will still be able to swing the cost of one of their hot dogs. Now if only they'd start charging more already.