In this week’s review lineup, a motley crew of relative newcomers, including a noodle bar serving a kimchee-and-Spam sandwich, join some of the usual suspects, like Eleven Madison Park.
Having dissed the old-school last week, Alan Richman turns to the "epicenter of alternative dining" (the Spotted Pig, natch) but, disappointingly, fails to deliver any shockers: It’s "a ridiculously cramped gastro-pub in the West Village where you suffer physically and usually eat well." [Bloomberg]
Bruni’s off blogging in Italy, but Julia Moskin doesn’t miss a beat dissecting Francois Payard’s InTent. The crowd consists of "headbangers and headbands." The waiters "must be imported in carloads from Ann Arbor, Mich., or Madison, Wis." The wine menu has categories that "suggest personality profiles at friendster.com." And the food? "Sometimes it works beautifully, and sometimes the softness dissolves into mush." [NYT]