Martini-addled bankers not shown.Photo: Courtesy L’Atelier De Jöel Robuchon
Our six-foot-five resident critic — “big as a house” in his own words — finds a subject every bit as imposing in this week’s review, where he takes on L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. We won’t cherry-pick the best lines or give away the surprising star rating, but we think this is one of Platt’s very best efforts — the only review we’ve seen that really gives an idea of what it’s like to belly up to the bar at New York’s most ambitious new restaurant. We enjoy all of the big man’s reviews, of course, but this one showed a little extra brilliance. Maybe he was inspired by Robuchon’s counter. “I love eating in bars,” he tells us, by way of explanation. “So I always approach them with reverence and eagerness.”
