This week the fork-and-penners visited four joints where the primo grub made up for the less-than-stellar service and atmosphere.
Bruni doles out a judicious three stars to Jol Robuchon, noting that the chef's foie grasandKobe beef slider ("the haute burger of the new millennium") has nice buns. [NYT]
After some throat-clearing that involves the mention of "a sex act you don't want to know about," Lauren Collins states in no uncertain terms that "you'd be crazy to want to eat" at Dirty Bird. But you should definitely get a mess of the spicy, succulent legs delivered. [NYer]