1. Bohemian Beer Garden
There's no place we'd rather be on Oktoberfest than this citadel, where the huge, crunchy, explosively juicy wursts and the house's signature kielbasa constitute a party of their very own.
2. Blaue Gans
Kurt Gutenbrunner's "Bavarian Balthazar," as the Robs call it, is committed year-round to wurstcraft. For the holiday, though, the weisswurst, a mild pork-and-veal sausage, is de rigueur.
3. Hallo Berlin
The only known example of a street cart so good that it actually spun off a sit-down restaurant: Rolf Babiel's West Side roller produces plump and potent varieties not often seen in New York. Try the spicy currywurst.
Rolf's wursts, while wholesome, tend to be mild and unchallenging. But something about sitting under the restaurant's forest of autumnal paper foliage makes us feel all is right with the world.
It doesn't get any more German, or any more old school, than this Yorkville institution, whose proximity to the Shaller and Weber store provides a direct pipeline from America's biggest wurst manufacturer. On the sunniest day of the year, it's as dark as Plato's cave, and the lederhosen-garbed still seem to mourn Bismarck.