Grub Street

You have to hand it to David Burke. The mulletted meat-and-lobster whiz has done it all: He pulled off an experimental gastronomy restaurant in a neighborhood populated mostly by septuagenarians and rethought the hamburger inside a department store. Now, in his crowning glory, he has created a menu for bikini bar Hawaiian Tropic Zone on Seventh Avenue, which opens this week. This is a restaurant concept so primal and crass that it makes Hooters look subdued. In its honor, we present a list of the city's best strip-club menus.

What kind of person eats at a strip-club buffet? Let's not answer that. But ... if you had to rate the fleshpots' kitchens, the list might go something like this:

• Robert's Steakhouse
Helmed by the classically trained Adam Perry Lang, and sparing no effort or expense, this steakhouse inside the Penthouse Executive Club beats a visit to the champagne room any day.

• Flashdancers NYC
Here's that rare thing: a decent strip-club buffet, with fine tater tots and a sushi bar thrown in.

•Le Marque
The two Scores New York, the most opulent and least-friendly strip clubs in America, house Robert's only rival for go-go gourmandism.

• Wiggles / Cheburechnaya
These two institutions, barely a block apart, have confusingly similar-looking Uzbek ladies — but only Cheburechnaya offers a lamb-fat kebab. Call it "dinner and a show," Rego Park style.

• Lotus
Even after the departure of chef Tyson Wong Ophaso to Chinatown Brasserie, it's still the best place to eat while watching models make out.