In honor of the pawpaw, here's our list of five of the most delicious southern foods you'll find in New York.
1. Pan-fried chicken, Charles' Southern Style Kitchen.
North Carolina's fried-chicken virtuoso puts deep-fryers to shame with his immense pan, the soul-food equivalent of Yo-Yo Ma's cello.
3. Chitterlings, Amy Ruth's Home-Style Southern Cuisine.
Some of the best intestines you'll ever put in your intestines.
4. Gumbo, Natchez*.
Not the fabled "seventh ward" gumbo of New Orleans, but an intense Creole rendition nonetheless, thick with andouilles and duck.
5. Scrapple, Telepan.
Chef Bill Telepan's no more southern than we are. Still, this block of pig parts cooked up with cornmeal recalls the work of Pan Pan's Ben Barrow, New York's previous sultan of scrapple.
* Correction, September 25, 2006: Natchez is actually closed. Also, the fruit pictured is not pawpaw (Asimina triloba) but rather papaya (Carica papaya). The two are frequently confused, but an image of pawpaw can be found here.