Ask any pastavore and he will tell you: Michael White’s fusilli with red-wine-braised octopus and bone marrow is one of the greatest pasta dishes of the century, if not all time. Everyone who has ever tried it loves it. Well, that’s not entirely true. We do know one person, a certain critic, who claims to hate it. But he is a gloomy, disputatious old curmudgeon who, as a baby, would have given his own mother’s milk a bad review had his fat little fingers been able to work the Smith-Corona.